1 /5
Média de Avaliação
★
I 've had cookbooks from the Troisgros Brothers in my library for 25 years, and ate a very good meal at La Colline du Colombier in August '12, which is unfortunately closed over the Winter. So revisiting the south of Burgundy, my wife and I booked a table at Le Central, figuring we 'd have at least as good a meal as at La Colline (owned by offspring of the Troisgros family. This could not have been a bigger mistake. Ordering from the evening Menu, I chose the Joue de Boeuf (braised beef cheeks which I have cooked many times, and are always wonderful, especially given the Charolais beef in this part of France. When the plate arrived, I had to do a double take: imagine economy class airplane food, on an American carrier no less, transposed to a plate in a French restaurant riding on the coat tails of the 3 Michelin star mother venue next door. It did not compute. The disc of brown boeuf resembled a turd forced into a ring, smothered with thick, dark brown and opaque sludge. Two squirts of potato puree completed the picture, with a single roasted garlic clove for garnish. The beef had been cooked so long, and so far before service, that it was completely without taste, dry (which is almost inconceivable for this moist cut properly prepared and blandly seasoned. The kitchen had obviously tried to make up for this by over salting the acrid, bitter and altogether hideous sauce. The potato puree tasted like reconstituted instant from a supermarket box, I kid you not. This was probably the worst plate of food I have ever had in a real restaurant. I sent it back. I won 't belabor all the other idiotic things that accompanied the boeuf, save perhaps that the Maitre 'D told me the featured wine of the week was a Northern Rhone (I asked but in fact it was not, it was a Southern Rhone, or that the pommes frites were soggy, and if a French Brasserie cannot make French Fries, they should just go home and give it up. When the bill came, I found that I had been charged for both the dish I sent back, and the substitute dish. They actually had to call the manager from the 3 star restaurant next door to deal with me, because I will not accept that kind of nonsense. They eventually did revise the bill, but at that point, the meal which was already disgusting, was positively toxic. Given that the only reason we drove over an hour to the dump of a city called Roanne was to visit this restaurant, I 'd highly recommend not going near it- we could not even find a decent cafe to have an aperitif prior to our reservation at Le Central, having walked all over le 'Centre Ancien '. What has happened to France? Jonathan Weiss